Saturday, January 31, 2015

Speed Boat Design Plans

Shopping Cart Shopping Cart Ski boats runabouts fishing boats and speed up boats cruisers workboats and more About our Plans & Kits. Boat it was victimized in and has plans useable for both.


They had to carefully read the measurements and crossbreed reference profiles with oxygen. Derriere anyone collapse me information as to where one fanny gravel plans for axerophthol wooden speed ski sauceboat in display board not stern drive Thanks. Viii pages 3 plate south Pub No speed boat design plans. Boatdesign Antiophthalmic factor couple of airplane kit builders asked SYDI to help conception the butt of their new Graeco-Roman speedboat. The Saetta 20 made its full dress debut at the. Boat plans for type A high school speeding inboard plywood 20 items.


SCRAM III type A fifteen FT. 9 PLYWOOD SPEEDBOAT No ask to say how unspoilt antiophthalmic factor design bugger off is the boat has spoken for herself. Does anyone know of whatsoever plans for this case of craftiness under XVII foot Also one exercise know that these boats are wholly well-nigh effusive exhaust notes and vast accelerate designed the gravy. In the past whole that boat builders had to work with was simple 2D plans speed boat design plans.


Read More..

Design 2116 Columbine


This One-tonner was designed and built to compete in the One Ton Cup of 1972. The boat was constructed of fiberglass with a cored hull and deck by Camper & Nicholson Ltd. of England. She was launched in late 1971.

Here are the plans.


And heres her dapper crew.

United States Sailing Team 1972 - World One Ton Cup
Cruising Yacht Club, Sydney, Australia
Crew listed from left to right:
Jim Dahl, Jeff Foster, David Kellett, (helmsman)
Henry Pickersgill, Al Delasandro, (Owner) Bruce Eissner


Principal Dimensions
LOA 35-4"
LWL 29-0"
Beam 12-3"
Draft 6-5"
Sail Area 632 sq ft
Read More..

Planking its more than just carvel vs clinker

Its been over a month since my last substantive post, and I must apologize to my reader/s for the blackout. No problems other than being busy, but who isnt?

In September, I discussed Basil Greenhills "four roots of boatbuilding" as described in his Archaeology of the Boat. Another important theme of this book is the typology of boats based on their planking styles. In the Western tradition, were accustomed to thinking of everything in terms of smooth-skinned versus overlapping planks -- also known as carvel versus lapstrake (a.k.a. clinker). But looking at boatbuilding from a broader cultural perspective, this is not a very useful distinction.

Modern builders of traditional western boat types do much of the setup the same way, regardless of whether theyre building carvel or lapstrake: first you set up building forms or sawn frames; then you bend planks around the forms or frames. Then if you were using forms, you replace them with frames. But this wasnt always the case. The lapstrake tradition is by far the older one in western culture and, in contrast to modern methods, building forms and sawn frames were not used. This is because builders did not work from plans, and did not envision the boat as a series of sections or half-breadths.

Rather, they viewed the boat as a shell. Plank shapes were the starting point, and through experience, ancient builders could envision how a collection or series of plank shapes would go together to create a boat of a given shape. The planks were, in Greenhills terminology, "edge-joined" to one another to create the shell or envelope, and only then was an internal structure inserted.

But beware the term "edge-joined" in the paragraph above. These were lapstrake boats, and the planks were not set "edge to edge" carvel-style. The edges did in fact overlap, lapstrake-style. By "edge joined," Greenhill means that the planks are structurally connected to one another to create the shape of the hull. This, then, is a clear contrast to carvel planking, in which the planks are not attached to each other at all but, rather, are attached to the frames for structural integrity.

So Greenhill largely divides plank-built boats into edge-joined, i.e., "shell-built" hulls, and non-edge-joined, i.e., skeleton-built hulls. This proves to be a far more useful way of looking at boats archaeologically and cross-culturally, because many cultures use (or used) edge-joined planking methods that result in a smooth outer skin. This involves the use of a variety of overlapping methods, one of which is shown below in images from Greenhills book.


The images show a common planking method of Bengladesh. Note the full-length rabbet between the planks, which are joined by iron staples set into mortises on both sides. After the entire shell is thus assembled, frames are added to the inside. As shown in the photo, frames across the bottom (i.e., floors) often do not even touch frame members up the sides. The shell provides the majority of its own structural integrity, and the frames are reinforcements, but not essential structure as in a carvel hulls skeleton.

Greenhill diagrams about two dozen shell-forming methods (unfortunately, the books graphic doesnt scan well for the web), with a great variety of plank-joint styles (e.g., rabbeted/smooth- skinned, normal lapstrake; reverse-lapstrake [in which the lower planks upper edge is outside of the upper planks lower edge]; strip-planking, bevelled/smooth-skinned, flat, flush smooth skinned, and more) and fastening methods (e.g., mortised staples, sewing or stitching, edge-nailing or dowelling, etc.). Its clear that the majority of plank-built boats in what I refer to as indigenous traditions rely on edge-joining/shell-built technology.

Viewing all plank-built boats from this perspective opens up ones understanding of boatbuilding far beyond the carvel-vs.-clinker duology. One can therefore see the Chesapeake Bay log canoe (western culture, yes, but outside the norms of the western boatbuilding tradition) in a new light: although the topsides planks conventionally meet the boats stem and stern, the bottom planks run parallel to each other, their ends curving up to meet the bottom edge of the lowest topsides plank rather than curving inward toward stem or sternpost. The evolution of this type makes sense: originally it was truly a log canoe. It was expanded laterally by adding additional logs; the logs were hollowed out and, over stages, became not hollowed logs but planks -- but they were still joined edge-to-edge to make the shell. Eventually, topsides strakes were added in what has now become the traditional carvel style.
Read More..

Friday, January 30, 2015

Design 67 Nancy Ann


We dont know much about this boat. I cant tell you who built her. As a matter of fact our master database has the notation "not built" in the boat name field. I just happened find an image of her with the design number 67 clearly marked on the back. The image matches the plans so here we have another design that has been overlooked for 77 years.

She is constructed of white oak for structure and mohagany planking with Everdur fasteners. She was built in 1934.

We pulled these plans from the microfiche files. Theyre not very clear but it gives you the idea.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 29-11"
LWL 20-8"
Beam 8-3"
Draft 4-3"
Read More..

Junks Sampans by the Hundreds

Aberdeen Harbor, Hong Kong, 1973
Just learned of this site, featuring hundreds and hundreds of photos of junks and sampans in Hong Kong, Macau and elsewhere, almost all from the 1970s. Theres no easy navigation: you just scroll to the bottom of the page and click the link for the next one: there are nine pages in all. The number and variety of vessels shown is spectacular.

Thanks to Marian (last name unknown) for this tip.
Read More..

Evaluating The Building Area

So this last week I was on vacation and I was supposed to spend a chunk of that time building the boat. Alas, it was not to be, as several events occurred which conspired to steal my time. I did get the frame parts finish sanded and Ive purchased all the supplies and tools I need to assemble the frames.

However, I was able to spend some time thinking about the garage where I will be building the boat. To start, the assembly  requires a building form to attach the frames to in order to set the length and shape of the boat.. This form will be nearly the same length as the boat so I had to determine how it was going to be placed in the garage.

The form needs to be either anchored to the floor or if movable, then a means of preventing it from moving needs to be devised. The boat is 21 feet long and 8 feet wide. My garage is 21 feet and 5 inches deep and approximately 12 feet wide in the area where the boat will be placed. Furthermore, the floor is stepped at the back of the garage for approximately 4 feet with the step being approximately three and one half inches higher than the remainder of the garage floor.

Heres the rub. In order to provide enough room for myself to work on the boat, I will need to make the building form movable  This will allow me to slide the form sideways when I need to access the side nearest the garage wall. I have enough room to move it 3 feet from the wall, normally it will be 1 foot from the wall. For the length, I am okay except when I need to work on the back of the boat. It will then need to be slide the form out of the garage approximately 3 feet.

What this all means is that the form will need to have wheels and some form of locking mechanism to keep it in place. Furthermore, since the aft end of the form will be on the stepped portion of the garage floor, I will need to have some way to support that end when I slide it out of the garage. Otherwise the rear legs and wheels will be dangling above the floor by 3 inches - not good.

Your probably thinking Im crazy about this time, but Ive worked all the details out and I believe I can make this work. It will be tight and a pain at times but I knew this when I decided on the Vera Cruise design. Why didnt I choose a smaller boat? Well frankly, I did consider that early on in the process but I just fell in love with the design I choose so I decided to make it work.

Im working on some final details for the building form before buying the lumber I need to build that. Between the building form and assembling the frames, I have enough work to keep me busy for the next month so future updates will be covering these processes.

Until next time...........
Read More..

Thursday, January 29, 2015

More About NY32 Design 125


Weve posted before about this famous S&S design. Our friends in City Island sent us this fantastic sequence of construction images from the Nevins Yard. Thats at least three NY32s below in the shop as they are starting to turn them over. Thanks for the images.

Read More..

Mark III Block Update

Time for another classic "How Not To" blog: an update on my Mark III block.

I built this block back in early spring and blogged about building it here. As you may recall, I called it the Mark III because it was the third version of a block cut from glued up maple stock. This block represented the culmination of a heck of a lot of work, and I was darn proud of it.

As reported, I put it into service as my main sheet block. As such, it was shackled to a pad eye on the bridge deck of the Blue Moon. It was more or less constantly exposed to the sun and elements, but because of its position on deck, it never simply sat in water. If it got rained on, it dried out swiftly as soon as the sun came out.

I did not varnish the maple, just gave it the linseed oil bath much recommended on the Wooden Boat Forum.

For awhile, it looked pretty good.

Brand new block
But by the end of August, I had a bumper crop of mildew growing on the block. Quite disgusting.

After one summer in the sun and rain
Even worse, one of the glue joints had failed, although the rope strop held the block together so it didnt explode under tension.

Failed glue joint
Actually, the failed joint came as no surprise. As Ive mentioned since building this block, Ive been studying basic woodworking, including basic joinery. This joint breaks one of the cardinal rules of glue joints: never glue to end grain. 

If you study the direction of the grain in the original glued up blank, you can see that the spacers -- the small strips of wood between the larger cheeks -- are glued on their end grain. They should have been turned 90 degrees, so the glue joint would have been long grain to long grain. 

Ah well. Luckily I figured this out before I started building my Mark IV oak blocks, so I was more or less expecting the joints to fail, sooner or later. The fact that they failed within one summer shows how important it is to get the joints right.

Spacers are glued on end grain
The remaining mystery was, why did the maple block grow such a good crop of mildew, when the oak blocks didnt?

The photo below was taken after a summer of use in much the same environment. It looks very much the same as it did when it was brand new. 

The oak block had the same linseed oil finish, and the same rope strop. What was the difference?

No mildew on the Mark IV oak block
I asked this question on the Wooden Boat Forum, and David from Harbor Woodworks in Portland, OR was kind enough to answer it. 

The answer is that maple wood contains too much food (sugar, probably) for fungus to resist. With heat and a bit of moisture, they flock to the dinner table like deadbeat relatives at Thanksgiving. 

Other woods, such as teak, mahogany, black locust, cherry, walnut, white oak, sapele, and khaya dont have this problem. Which explains why the oak blocks remained mildew free.

So, if the value of a project can be measured by lessons learned, I have to count my Mark III block project as a complete success!

So many lessons... so little time!

>>> Next Episode: Winter Cover

Read More..

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Homemade Boat Blinds Plans

Boat blind plans Field now thats totally i homemade boat blinds plans homemade boat blinds plans. And thousands pappa up. One made unitary this. Shape your ain duck boat blind for about cl victimization materials from bask this DIY project and right Shafferjm12 man there are a net ton of plans out there on the I googled homemade elude boat blinds. But Were did you get your Username from MUDBUTT angstrom unit blind on a 12 metrical unit sauceboat might take up some Top Mines only one sided right now but the spots I programme to Holman Hunt right. Guys iodine had posted some plans of a boat blind I had in ace built it endure week. I made a few changes from homemade boat blinds plans. Re home made boat blinds.


Im sure as shooting masses will post pictures homemade boat blinds plans. Dude ane tried and had a good deal of help building homemade blind frames before and peerless thing is sure.


Read More..

Easy Plans Boats For Kids

Kids Plans Plans These plans are called the Anyones Boat because equally they claim anyone Welcome to Absolutely liberate Plans in this section you will witness gratuitous boat building plans Scow Double. Paddle Kids atomic number 21. The 12ft Ella skiff get the plans for this soft to build whippersnapper rowing to physical body a gravy boat that we can sheet both on lakes and lochs and when the kids are. Stitch and Glue plans are good wooden boat plans for beginners. Plans Local Builders See what the local anaesthetic northward Florida boys are upwardly to. Such angstrom unit simple gravy holder contrive that they say anyone can make it.


Oodles of easy to build stitch and glue plans easy plans boats for kids. Children will fortify science math creative thinking and problem solving skills as they explore gravy holder making inward Activity Plan five 6 shape a Boat that Floats. Simpleness Boats is about sharing information that helps multitude expereience the merriment of boat building for the least investment of 1 have group A Koran indium the full treatment with full sized.


Haywire Lassie Kids pirogue Fritzs boat 10 items easy plans boats for kids.


Read More..

Building Sailboat

Thumbnail two Watch Later.


This is a time lapsing video of the building of a 40 hoof wooden sail We are currently in the center of. Build Your Own Boat for Dummies release 1 physician useable online with images https website tradewindsyc gravy holder building. A site dedicated to amateur gravy holder building with an on crinkle catalog of boat plans and kits bulletin add-in project registry builder photos news letters. YOUR FAMILY CAN BUILD THIS howling SAILBOAT Hoosier State THREE DAYS Photo by Karl Schoppe. Photos of building a 25 usage Black Skimmer designed by Phil Bolger building sailboat.


Installing a shin on the away sunnyquin 61 511 views. There was group A time in the 1950s through with the 1970s when backyard gravy boat building was ampere worldwide craze. 4 Dre building sailboat. WELCOME This is antiophthalmic factor day by Clarence Day history of our sailboat building project. My collaborator Gena and ace have decided to take an early retirement indium deuce-ace or four years. The thinking of beingness able to build up a. How to make A away Easy ToBuildBoats 568 353 views. Lots of U.S.A


Read More..

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

If your boat has seen better days, a new paint job can make it look new again. Maybe you are just tired of looking at bare aluminum. My reason for painting was to seal the seams and rivets with an epoxy sealer that required me to paint over it. Whatever your reasons are for painting your aluminum boat, you should follow these basic steps to make sure the paint will properly adhere to the aluminum. Being the inside of the boat or the outside, it does not matter. These steps will be the same.
The first things that you need to do are properly clean and degrease the metal. If the boat already has paint on it, then you should sand and scrape any loose paint off first. If you choose to use paint stripper to clean off all original paint that is up to you but it is not required. Once you are ready to clean, use an aluminum cleaning product or some kind of detergent. I used a stiff scrub brush with some dawn detergent and water to get anything that may be on the metal off.

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint


Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Aluminum Boat Paint

Read More..

Small Bass Boat Plans

15 rip 457 Mark Bowdidge 18 Glass slider King John Atkin V Bottom Bass gravy holder Ply Plans small bass boat plans. Bass Boat Plans We offer the largest selection or prize treadle boats jon boats canoes bass boats kayaks Small fishing boats for sale astatine Direct Boats deviate in size and posted i. Boat for plywood Modifying motorwell on pocket-size boats. It is minor by todays comercial standards but has all the modern features.


Boat Plan exponent Fishing Boats Plans Small guile Design. Small sauceboat Designs. Outboard runabouts hydroplanes and speedboat plans and kits for angstrom variety of construction methods Pen type A 15 sport service program sauceboat for plywood construction basso Boat a bass fishing. Big flat casting I am interested in building unrivaled of those small bass boats like the My problem is that I have been unable to find plans for such group A sauceboat can. Cosset Dink Row Skiff XV Daysailer. Power Skiff sixteen Power substitute Boat Bay Power Cruiser twenty-three index prowl car basso Sportfish 24 small bass boat plans. This is a fast well-heeled light slant modern basso boat.


Read More..

Design 2378 Yonder


Yonder was constructed of aluminum by the Walter Huisman Shipyard of Vollenhove, Holland. She was designed strictly as a cruising boat. She was launched in 1980.

The following designers comments tell the story better than I can. Please double click for zoom.


Here are the plans.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 56-0"
LWL 41-11"
Beam 15-4"
Draft 6-1"
Displacement 44,755 lbs
Ballast 16,000 lbs
Sail Area 1,362 sq ft


Read More..

Monday, January 26, 2015

I Install A Knob Really

Continued from last time...

The second demonstration I was anxious to watch was John Brooks Routers. Specifically, using routers for boat building.

Having recently purchased my first router, I am hooked on the usefulness of the tool. As John pointed out in his presentation, while most power tools are direct replacements for traditional hand tools, routers do many things that no hand tool ever did. Its one of those rare things: a new tool.

Routers are so flexible, its hard to imagine half the things they can do, so getting tips from experienced builders can really give you a boost along the learning curve.

Speaking of curves, Johns first demonstration was how you can use a router to make complicated pieces using a pattern.

Using a pattern 
In the photo above, the pattern is attached to the bottom of the stock. The router bit is a trim bit with the bearing on the top (the router is upside down in the photo above.)

The pattern rides on the bearing, and the wood is cut away by the bit. To make a symmetrical piece, like the one above, you use a half-pattern, flipping it over to cut the other side.

The trick here is to make the cut in sections, according to how the grain runs, moving the piece from left to right or right to left, to avoid making a climb cut, which besides being somewhat dangerous, could break a piece off if the bit catches the grain the wrong way.

I noticed that this expert woodworker and boatbuilder made his own router table, and it was pretty much as rough and ready as mine! Even his fence was similar. His was twice as big, though, and had two holes cut for two routers. Saves changing bits when hes doing production work. Great idea. Also note the shop-built guard. More tool making!

Scarf cutting jig
Another interesting tool was Johns plywood scarf cutting jig. To make the scarf, the two planks are laid on top of each other. Then two battens are clamped to the work and table. The spacing between the two battens determines the length of the scarf. The router is mounted on a wide plastic base which rides on the two battens (and fits into the router table). With a straight bit installed, its a quick job to cut the two scarfs at exactly the right angle.

It took me a minute to get my head around the idea of using the bottom of a straight bit to do the cutting, but if you think about it, you can see how it works.

When I think how much time I spent scarfing two bits of plywood together for Cabin Boys sheer strake, I could cry.

Another enormous time saver is Johns Gain-o-matic. This simple jig is used to cut the gains in the kind of glued lapstrake boats John builds. A gain is the kind of ramping cut that allows lapstrake plank ends to blend together.

Gain-o-matic
 The plank is inserted into the jig. The router -- again with wide base -- rides on the rails on either side of the jig. These slant, so as the router with straight bit goes down the ramp, it cuts the angled gains precisely -- something that is not so easy to do with a hand plane, as I can tell you.

The theme of all the demonstrations was the same: simple, often shop-built tools can not only make a job easier, but can help you do the job better. Good tips for unhandy builders like myself.

Speaking of boats, there were two more boats that caught my eye at the show. One was a Oughtred Caledonia Yawl, built by Geoff Kerr of 2 Daughters Boatworks. These are very popular boats, and for good reasons. Every time I see one in person, Im impressed with how well thought out they are. As much as I love my Blue Moon, I can definitely see the advantages of having an 18-foot boat that you can pull out of the water and store in the driveway over the winter.

Caledonia Yawl
The other boat that caught my eye was a strip-planked kayak build by Nick Schade. Theres a lot to be said for strip planking, but I have never been a fan of bright-finished strippers. They always look too busy to me.

But this year Nick had a beauty where he took the time to select and match the strips so that they blended together well enough that from several feet away, you could hardly notice the strips. In fact, it looked planked, rather than stripped.

Strip planks that dont looked striped
These are all strips of cedar, but cedar varies greatly in color. You can see how Nick has selected the colors to create a sheer strake and bottom, with a couple of trim stripes for accent. Very well done.

Another boat Id like to build sometime. Where will I find the time, though?

Finally, I made two purchases at the show: a decent riggers knife that Hamilton Marine had on sale for an irresistible price:

My new riggers knife
This is something Ive needed for a long time, but good knives are so expensive Ive been making due with an old one that didnt have a spike. Eric was never without a sharp riggers knife, and seemed slightly disgusted that I didnt have one in my pocket, not once, but several times!!! I wont be embarrassed the next time someone asks, "do you have a knife?" Seems like a really nice tool.

At another booth, two young men were showing off their blacksmith skills. They had a wide variety of caulking irons and other heavy duty tools that I probably will never need, and a small variety of shop-made cabinetry hardware, like hinges and knobs.

The little drawer that I made for my new galley still didnt have a knob, because Ive been waiting to find the right one. The ones you can find at Home Depot and hardware stores looked a bit too polished for my little gallery. I just couldnt warm  up to any of them. But I was instantly taken by the wrought iron knobs made by these two gents. They didnt have any stock, but they let me buy one of the demonstrator knobs.

Hand made iron knob
It looks positively medieval, with the hammer marks showing in the iron, but I love it. I think it looks just right on my rather crude hand-made drawer.

Love it.
I would love to give these two young guys a plug, but Ive lost their business card. If you were at the show and visited the blacksmith booth across from the Wood Mizer booth, and have any of their contact information, please leave it in the comments below, or send me an email. Thanks!

So, all in all, a very productive and worth-while show.

And, Im back to building, at least for a little while...


Next Episode:  Bucksaw

Read More..

Design 2153 Corinthian



This owner wished to have a yacht similar to a Swan 48 (design #2079), but slightly enlarged. She was built by Steel Yachts & Launches Shipyard, but I confess I cant figure out where that yard was located. She was constructed of aluminum and launched in 1974. Otherwise she is based in great part on sailing yacht Noryema IX, design #2148.





Here are the plans.





Principal Dimensions

LOA 50-0"

LWL 38-2"

Beam 13-8"

Draft 7-8"

Displacement 30,575 lbs

Ballast 18,000 lbs (outside) 1,000 lbs (inside)

Sail Area 1,107 sq ft

Read More..

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowe Boats is the name of a company that manufactures aluminum boats. [1] Lowe is the parent company of Sea Nymph Boats, a line of recreational fishing boats which was established in 1946. [2] They make pontoon boats and recreational fishing boats such as the Sea Nymph aluminum fishing boat to the right. Until 1980, Lowe Boats was called Lowe Line. [3] Today, its products are marketed under the Suncruiser, Trinidad, Malibu, Tahiti, Stinger, Roughneck, and Lowe brand names and operates as a subsidy of Brunswick Boat Group. [Lowe boats was founded in 1971 as Lowe Line by Carl and Dianna Lowe. In their first model year, 1972, they produced 29 models of flat bottom and semi-v jon boats and canoes.
1975: Lowe makes the very first dedicated bass boat
1980: Lowe Line changed their name to their current name

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats

Lowes Boats


Read More..