Saturday, January 31, 2015
Shopping Cart Shopping Cart Ski boats runabouts fishing boats and speed up boats cruisers workboats and more About our Plans & Kits. Boat it was victimized in and has plans useable for both.
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This One-tonner was designed and built to compete in the One Ton Cup of 1972. The boat was constructed of fiberglass with a cored hull and deck by Camper & Nicholson Ltd. of England. She was launched in late 1971.
Here are the plans.
And heres her dapper crew.
Crew listed from left to right:
Jim Dahl, Jeff Foster, David Kellett, (helmsman)
Henry Pickersgill, Al Delasandro, (Owner) Bruce Eissner
LOA 35-4"
LWL 29-0"
Beam 12-3"
Draft 6-5"
Sail Area 632 sq ft
In September, I discussed Basil Greenhills "four roots of boatbuilding" as described in his Archaeology of the Boat. Another important theme of this book is the typology of boats based on their planking styles. In the Western tradition, were accustomed to thinking of everything in terms of smooth-skinned versus overlapping planks -- also known as carvel versus lapstrake (a.k.a. clinker). But looking at boatbuilding from a broader cultural perspective, this is not a very useful distinction.
Modern builders of traditional western boat types do much of the setup the same way, regardless of whether theyre building carvel or lapstrake: first you set up building forms or sawn frames; then you bend planks around the forms or frames. Then if you were using forms, you replace them with frames. But this wasnt always the case. The lapstrake tradition is by far the older one in western culture and, in contrast to modern methods, building forms and sawn frames were not used. This is because builders did not work from plans, and did not envision the boat as a series of sections or half-breadths.
Rather, they viewed the boat as a shell. Plank shapes were the starting point, and through experience, ancient builders could envision how a collection or series of plank shapes would go together to create a boat of a given shape. The planks were, in Greenhills terminology, "edge-joined" to one another to create the shell or envelope, and only then was an internal structure inserted.
But beware the term "edge-joined" in the paragraph above. These were lapstrake boats, and the planks were not set "edge to edge" carvel-style. The edges did in fact overlap, lapstrake-style. By "edge joined," Greenhill means that the planks are structurally connected to one another to create the shape of the hull. This, then, is a clear contrast to carvel planking, in which the planks are not attached to each other at all but, rather, are attached to the frames for structural integrity.
So Greenhill largely divides plank-built boats into edge-joined, i.e., "shell-built" hulls, and non-edge-joined, i.e., skeleton-built hulls. This proves to be a far more useful way of looking at boats archaeologically and cross-culturally, because many cultures use (or used) edge-joined planking methods that result in a smooth outer skin. This involves the use of a variety of overlapping methods, one of which is shown below in images from Greenhills book.
The images show a common planking method of Bengladesh. Note the full-length rabbet between the planks, which are joined by iron staples set into mortises on both sides. After the entire shell is thus assembled, frames are added to the inside. As shown in the photo, frames across the bottom (i.e., floors) often do not even touch frame members up the sides. The shell provides the majority of its own structural integrity, and the frames are reinforcements, but not essential structure as in a carvel hulls skeleton.
Greenhill diagrams about two dozen shell-forming methods (unfortunately, the books graphic doesnt scan well for the web), with a great variety of plank-joint styles (e.g., rabbeted/smooth- skinned, normal lapstrake; reverse-lapstrake [in which the lower planks upper edge is outside of the upper planks lower edge]; strip-planking, bevelled/smooth-skinned, flat, flush smooth skinned, and more) and fastening methods (e.g., mortised staples, sewing or stitching, edge-nailing or dowelling, etc.). Its clear that the majority of plank-built boats in what I refer to as indigenous traditions rely on edge-joining/shell-built technology.
Viewing all plank-built boats from this perspective opens up ones understanding of boatbuilding far beyond the carvel-vs.-clinker duology. One can therefore see the Chesapeake Bay log canoe (western culture, yes, but outside the norms of the western boatbuilding tradition) in a new light: although the topsides planks conventionally meet the boats stem and stern, the bottom planks run parallel to each other, their ends curving up to meet the bottom edge of the lowest topsides plank rather than curving inward toward stem or sternpost. The evolution of this type makes sense: originally it was truly a log canoe. It was expanded laterally by adding additional logs; the logs were hollowed out and, over stages, became not hollowed logs but planks -- but they were still joined edge-to-edge to make the shell. Eventually, topsides strakes were added in what has now become the traditional carvel style.
Friday, January 30, 2015
We dont know much about this boat. I cant tell you who built her. As a matter of fact our master database has the notation "not built" in the boat name field. I just happened find an image of her with the design number 67 clearly marked on the back. The image matches the plans so here we have another design that has been overlooked for 77 years.
She is constructed of white oak for structure and mohagany planking with Everdur fasteners. She was built in 1934.
We pulled these plans from the microfiche files. Theyre not very clear but it gives you the idea.
LOA 29-11"
LWL 20-8"
Beam 8-3"
Draft 4-3"
Aberdeen Harbor, Hong Kong, 1973 |
Thanks to Marian (last name unknown) for this tip.
However, I was able to spend some time thinking about the garage where I will be building the boat. To start, the assembly requires a building form to attach the frames to in order to set the length and shape of the boat.. This form will be nearly the same length as the boat so I had to determine how it was going to be placed in the garage.
The form needs to be either anchored to the floor or if movable, then a means of preventing it from moving needs to be devised. The boat is 21 feet long and 8 feet wide. My garage is 21 feet and 5 inches deep and approximately 12 feet wide in the area where the boat will be placed. Furthermore, the floor is stepped at the back of the garage for approximately 4 feet with the step being approximately three and one half inches higher than the remainder of the garage floor.
Heres the rub. In order to provide enough room for myself to work on the boat, I will need to make the building form movable This will allow me to slide the form sideways when I need to access the side nearest the garage wall. I have enough room to move it 3 feet from the wall, normally it will be 1 foot from the wall. For the length, I am okay except when I need to work on the back of the boat. It will then need to be slide the form out of the garage approximately 3 feet.
What this all means is that the form will need to have wheels and some form of locking mechanism to keep it in place. Furthermore, since the aft end of the form will be on the stepped portion of the garage floor, I will need to have some way to support that end when I slide it out of the garage. Otherwise the rear legs and wheels will be dangling above the floor by 3 inches - not good.
Your probably thinking Im crazy about this time, but Ive worked all the details out and I believe I can make this work. It will be tight and a pain at times but I knew this when I decided on the Vera Cruise design. Why didnt I choose a smaller boat? Well frankly, I did consider that early on in the process but I just fell in love with the design I choose so I decided to make it work.
Im working on some final details for the building form before buying the lumber I need to build that. Between the building form and assembling the frames, I have enough work to keep me busy for the next month so future updates will be covering these processes.
Until next time...........
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Weve posted before about this famous S&S design. Our friends in City Island sent us this fantastic sequence of construction images from the Nevins Yard. Thats at least three NY32s below in the shop as they are starting to turn them over. Thanks for the images.
I built this block back in early spring and blogged about building it here. As you may recall, I called it the Mark III because it was the third version of a block cut from glued up maple stock. This block represented the culmination of a heck of a lot of work, and I was darn proud of it.
As reported, I put it into service as my main sheet block. As such, it was shackled to a pad eye on the bridge deck of the Blue Moon. It was more or less constantly exposed to the sun and elements, but because of its position on deck, it never simply sat in water. If it got rained on, it dried out swiftly as soon as the sun came out.
I did not varnish the maple, just gave it the linseed oil bath much recommended on the Wooden Boat Forum.
For awhile, it looked pretty good.
Brand new block |
After one summer in the sun and rain |
Failed glue joint |
Spacers are glued on end grain |
No mildew on the Mark IV oak block |
>>> Next Episode: Winter Cover
Wednesday, January 28, 2015
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Tuesday, January 27, 2015
Aluminum Boat Paint
The first things that you need to do are properly clean and degrease the metal. If the boat already has paint on it, then you should sand and scrape any loose paint off first. If you choose to use paint stripper to clean off all original paint that is up to you but it is not required. Once you are ready to clean, use an aluminum cleaning product or some kind of detergent. I used a stiff scrub brush with some dawn detergent and water to get anything that may be on the metal off.
Aluminum Boat Paint
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Yonder was constructed of aluminum by the Walter Huisman Shipyard of Vollenhove, Holland. She was designed strictly as a cruising boat. She was launched in 1980.
The following designers comments tell the story better than I can. Please double click for zoom.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 56-0"
LWL 41-11"
Beam 15-4"
Draft 6-1"
Displacement 44,755 lbs
Ballast 16,000 lbs
Sail Area 1,362 sq ft
Monday, January 26, 2015
The second demonstration I was anxious to watch was John Brooks Routers. Specifically, using routers for boat building.
Having recently purchased my first router, I am hooked on the usefulness of the tool. As John pointed out in his presentation, while most power tools are direct replacements for traditional hand tools, routers do many things that no hand tool ever did. Its one of those rare things: a new tool.
Routers are so flexible, its hard to imagine half the things they can do, so getting tips from experienced builders can really give you a boost along the learning curve.
Speaking of curves, Johns first demonstration was how you can use a router to make complicated pieces using a pattern.
Using a pattern |
The pattern rides on the bearing, and the wood is cut away by the bit. To make a symmetrical piece, like the one above, you use a half-pattern, flipping it over to cut the other side.
The trick here is to make the cut in sections, according to how the grain runs, moving the piece from left to right or right to left, to avoid making a climb cut, which besides being somewhat dangerous, could break a piece off if the bit catches the grain the wrong way.
I noticed that this expert woodworker and boatbuilder made his own router table, and it was pretty much as rough and ready as mine! Even his fence was similar. His was twice as big, though, and had two holes cut for two routers. Saves changing bits when hes doing production work. Great idea. Also note the shop-built guard. More tool making!
Scarf cutting jig |
It took me a minute to get my head around the idea of using the bottom of a straight bit to do the cutting, but if you think about it, you can see how it works.
When I think how much time I spent scarfing two bits of plywood together for Cabin Boys sheer strake, I could cry.
Another enormous time saver is Johns Gain-o-matic. This simple jig is used to cut the gains in the kind of glued lapstrake boats John builds. A gain is the kind of ramping cut that allows lapstrake plank ends to blend together.
Gain-o-matic |
The theme of all the demonstrations was the same: simple, often shop-built tools can not only make a job easier, but can help you do the job better. Good tips for unhandy builders like myself.
Speaking of boats, there were two more boats that caught my eye at the show. One was a Oughtred Caledonia Yawl, built by Geoff Kerr of 2 Daughters Boatworks. These are very popular boats, and for good reasons. Every time I see one in person, Im impressed with how well thought out they are. As much as I love my Blue Moon, I can definitely see the advantages of having an 18-foot boat that you can pull out of the water and store in the driveway over the winter.
Caledonia Yawl |
But this year Nick had a beauty where he took the time to select and match the strips so that they blended together well enough that from several feet away, you could hardly notice the strips. In fact, it looked planked, rather than stripped.
Strip planks that dont looked striped |
Another boat Id like to build sometime. Where will I find the time, though?
Finally, I made two purchases at the show: a decent riggers knife that Hamilton Marine had on sale for an irresistible price:
My new riggers knife |
At another booth, two young men were showing off their blacksmith skills. They had a wide variety of caulking irons and other heavy duty tools that I probably will never need, and a small variety of shop-made cabinetry hardware, like hinges and knobs.
The little drawer that I made for my new galley still didnt have a knob, because Ive been waiting to find the right one. The ones you can find at Home Depot and hardware stores looked a bit too polished for my little gallery. I just couldnt warm up to any of them. But I was instantly taken by the wrought iron knobs made by these two gents. They didnt have any stock, but they let me buy one of the demonstrator knobs.
Hand made iron knob |
Love it. |
So, all in all, a very productive and worth-while show.
And, Im back to building, at least for a little while...
Next Episode: Bucksaw
This owner wished to have a yacht similar to a Swan 48 (design #2079), but slightly enlarged. She was built by Steel Yachts & Launches Shipyard, but I confess I cant figure out where that yard was located. She was constructed of aluminum and launched in 1974. Otherwise she is based in great part on sailing yacht Noryema IX, design #2148.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 50-0"
LWL 38-2"
Beam 13-8"
Draft 7-8"
Displacement 30,575 lbs
Ballast 18,000 lbs (outside) 1,000 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 1,107 sq ft